FAQ

Getting started: what you need

  • 3DPW files
  • 3D printer
  • PLA filament
  • RC equipment
  • Basic tools
  • A quick overview of our main resources: this article, video guides, and manual

Introduction

As 3D printing enthusiasts, we know that early issues are the main reason people leave this hobby. We want to make your path from PLA spool to first take-off as smooth as possible. That is why we provide video guides for every airplane, PDF manuals, email support, this FAQ article, and extra tips on social media. If your results are not ideal, experiment, record each change, and compare prints before applying settings to the full model.

3D files

Our files are optimized for Simplify3D. We considered alternatives like Cura, but our current results there are not yet good enough. If you do not have S3D, you still receive ready-to-print g-codes. We recommend S3D if you want full control over settings and troubleshooting. All parts fit printers with at least 195 x 195 x 165 mm build volume (larger printers are fine). You can also download test files from Thingiverse.

Common issues and important tips

1. How to turn digital files into printed parts

Way 1: G-code (simplest)

If everything prints correctly and results are good, stay with this method. It is the easiest option if you do not have Simplify3D. Copy the provided g-codes to an SD card and print. These g-codes were prepared for the minimum supported build volume, so they also work on larger printers.

Way 2: Factory files (recommended if available)

This is the best option if you use a Prusa i3 Original MK2, and it also works well with similar printers. If parts do not print correctly because of positioning, open Processes and then G-Code settings, change printer volume to the minimum required size, and let S3D update the layout. In most cases you should then center and arrange parts manually (Edit menu). If your printer is not smaller than 195 x 195 x 165 mm, all parts should fit.

Way 3: STL to print (advanced)

Choose this if you have an uncommon printer, if the previous methods do not work, or if you want deeper control. You will create your own processes, place parts manually, and build factory files yourself. See the "Simplify3D Process Settings" section in your downloaded package.

2. Prints are weak, wavy, or too heavy

If prints are weak and wavy, or too heavy with clogged rod holes, the cause is usually extrusion settings.

Solution

Tune the extrusion multiplier. Depending on printer condition, the useful range is usually 1.0 to 1.2. A common target range is 1.02 to 1.05, but some parts (for example flexible gear doors) may require exceptions.

  • Weak, wavy print: increase multiplier.
  • Heavy print or clogged wing rod holes: reduce multiplier.

3. Prints warp or lift from the bed

This is most common around leading and trailing edges.

Solution

Improve bed adhesion. Use a heated bed when possible. Check bed surface condition and refresh adhesion material (for example Kapton tape or PEI) if needed. For glass beds, try hairspray. If issues continue, use files with an extra skirt or add one in S3D.

4. Stringing or holes near layer end points

Solution

First check hardware: PTFE tube, nozzle condition, and extruder health. Confirm filament diameter is consistent and filament is clean. Then tune retraction settings.

  • Reduce print speed by about 30% or more; keep retraction speed below 20 mm/s.
  • Extra restart distance: start near 0.12; common values are 0.04 to 0.18.
  • Retraction distance: start around 0.8 mm (direct drive) or 5 mm (Bowden), then tune.
  • Start points: choose optimize start points for fastest printing speed.
  • Higher extrusion multiplier can mask issues, but increases model weight.
  • Replace weak or unreliable extruders only after software and setup checks.

5. Temperature and cooling fan settings

Solution

  • Hotend: from 200 C up to what your setup can handle; we use 235 C.
  • Heated bed: 50 to 70 C; we use 55 C.
  • Cooling fan: off.

6. Printer recommendations

Build volume

To print our airplanes, use a printer with at least 195 x 195 x 165 mm build volume.

Stiffness and accuracy

The frame should be rigid and straight, and assembly should be accurate. You can improve stiffness with reinforcement mods. If you see strong waves after corners or sharp angles (especially leading and trailing edges), revisit mechanical rigidity and then reduce speed if needed.

Hotend and extruder

Keep both in good condition. We recommend a 0.4 mm nozzle. Other diameters may work but often require setting changes such as extrusion multiplier. Direct-drive extruders are generally better than Bowden setups for our use case.

Avoid the cheapest unknown clones. Check the manufacturer quality of critical components like the hotend. We use original Prusa printers.

7. Filament

Use good-quality PLA and protect it from moisture and dust. PETG may also work and is less sensitive to temperature.

8. Minor, less common issues

  • Thin or peaked parts can overheat or melt: print multiple parts at once, reduce speed, and lower temperature.
  • When printing spare parts, remember to re-check cooling and speed settings.